Siena City Walk


Un tour dettagliato nella città di Siena


Time: approximatively 4 hours – but longer if you visit churches museums etc. along the way

Start from Piazza del Campo:
Originally built in the 13C on the site of the old market place/field, the shell shape follows the natural lie of the land. The 9 brick divisions of the square represent the 9 heads of Government of that time – the famous ‘Good Government’. The famous Palio bareback horse race is run clockwise round the outer rim of the piazza on 2 July and 16 Aug annually, compacted earth being laid over the surface of the piazza to form a track.

The fountain – Fonte Gaia is a 19C replica of the original by Jacopo della Quercia (the original built in 1409 is in pieces in the loggia at the top of the Palazzo Publicco).
The main building – the Palazzo Pubblico was completed in 1310 as the seat of government for the city-state. It is still used as the Town Hall but also houses an important collection of frescoes on the first floor, including the allegories of Good and Bad Government by the Lorenzetti.
16.03 – 31.10; 10.00-19.00
26.11 – 15.02; 10.00-17.00
1.11 – 25.11; 16.02 -15.03; 10.00-18.
Closed 25.12

Next to it is the Torre del Mangia, completed in 1341. Views from the top are worth the climb. (In the final part the staircase is rather narrow – which may affect sufferers from claustrophobia).
1.11 – 15.3;   10.00-16.00
16.3 – 31.10; 10.00-19.00
Closed 25.12

Exit the Piazza by the broad shallow flight of steps on the New side (this is where the palio horse race starts and finishes). Turn L and immediately R into Via dei Pellegrini. In Piazza S. Giovanni is the Baptistery of the Cathedral. In the 14C the Cathedral was extended to the Baptistery built under the new high altar. It is frescoed within and contains the 15C baptismal font sculpted by Nicola Pisano in bronze with panels done by Jacopa della Quercia, Ghiberti and Donatello.
Open 01.11 – 14.3: 10.00-13.00/14.00-17.00
          15.3 – 30.9: 9.00-19.30
          01.10 – 31.10: 9.00-18.00
Closed New Year’s day and Christmas day

Go up the stairs, turn right signs Cripta
Open 09.00-13.00 daily.
Chapel between the Duomo and the Baptistery discovered 1997 dating to 1200’s. The chapel (cripta) frescos by the school of Duccio some in excellent conditions. This chapel was used as building site when the apse of the duomo was extended and the baptistery was built.  The discovery that there was something underneath the duomo was made in 1997. The idea that it could be a crypt ( per name) as it was usually built underneath the churches. After cautious attempts to reinforce the floor of the duomo  and excavate it was discovered it was chapel not a crypt.  It has not been excluded that there could be a crypt next to the chapel, further work will carried out once the frescos in chapel are restored.
Free audio available        
Go up the flight of steps on the LHS and through the archway. You are now standing in what would have been the new nave of the Cathedral. This project was started in 1339, but never completed due to the Plague/Black Death (notably the epidemic of 1348 when Siena lost one third of its population) and subsequent lack of money. Immediately on the LHS is the entrance to the Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana. This houses valuable works of art from the Cathedral, the most outstanding being Duccio’s Maesta. Commissioned to be put over the high altar, it was completed in 1311. The originals of the statues on the outside of the Cathedral and the Donatello tondo over the South door are also here. An eroded flight of stairs leading up to the parapet of the uncompleted nave offers an excellent alternative vantage point over the city.
Open 01.11 – 14.3: 09.00-13.30
           15.3   - 30.9:  09.00-19.30
           01.10 – 31.10:  09.00-18.00
Closed New Year’s day and Christmas day

Walk around the Cathedral to the W front, started in 1196 but completed in 1265 in Gothic style. Inside is a treasure trove, the most spectacular element being the inlaid marble floor of various scenes, worked on by a variety of artists from 1369 to the 1600s.
Also: Pulpit by Nicola Pisano elaborately sculpted in the 1280s
John the Baptist by Donatello
Stained glass in the apse by Duccio
Piccolomini Library
Open  01.11 – 14.3: 10.00-13.00/14.00-17.00
           15.3 – 31.10:  09.00-19.30
Closed  New Year’s day & Christmas day

Capello del Voto by Bernini.
Standing with your back to the ornate W front of the Cathedral, facing you across the square is the recently opened Ospedale Santa Maria della Scala.
Founded in the 9C, it was used as a hospital until 1991. The Pilgrims’ ward is frescoed by various artists including Domenica di Bartolo and Vecchietta. The scenes depict a variety of nursing themes from nursing the sick to caring for foundling babies.
Open 16.03 - 3.11: 10.00-18.00
            4.11 - 15.03: 10.30-16.30
           24.01 – 6.01: 10.00-18.00

Below Santa Maria della Scala the Archaeological Museum houses local Etruscan and Roman remains.
Same opening hours as Santa Maria della Scala; only opened on 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month 10.00-13.00

Turn L from the Piazza del Duomo down Via del Capitano and at Piazza di Postierla (X-roads) turn R into Via di Stalloreggi.
[If you want to visit the Pinacoteca which houses 3 floors of Sienese Art, go straight on at the X-roads into Via S. Pietro. It is 50m along on LHS.
Open Mon 08.30-13.30, Tuesday to Saturday 08.15-19.15, Sunday & Public Holidays 08.15-13.15]
Continuing along Via di Stalloreggi, after 50m on the LHS is the fountain of the Pantera (Panther) Contrada. As you walk around the city you will notice the different symbols of the Contrade and the fountain of each is at the main entrance. They each have their own chapel and museum (sadly only open at Palio times and for special visits with at least one week’s notice) and a social centre. Each Contrada holds a dinner the night before the Palio and visitors are welcome – though you need to book in advance.
On the next corner is a Pietà by Sodoma, known as the Madonna del Corvo (Lady of the Crow), as it is said a raven dropped dead of the plague here in 1348. Further down the street, just before the arch on the LHS, is the house where Duccio painted the Maestà. There is a plaque on the wall to commemorate it and you will notice many others as you walk round the city. Go through the arch to turn L into Pian dei Mantellini. At the end go R – Via della Diana. On the next LH corner you will see a deconsecrated chapel that has become a stable! The sign above the door says ‘Casa del Cavallo’ (the horse’s house). You are now in the Chiocciola (Snail) Contrada and this is where their horse is kept before the Palio. The groom never leaves it and while it sleeps the adjacent streets are shut so no noise will disturb it. The attractive well in front of it has sometimes had effigies of saints thrown into it when the Contrada has not won a Palio!
Turn L up Via San Marco passing the contrada church and social centre on RHS and turn R at top down Via delle Cerchia and continue straight to Prato S. Agostino. Keeping church on LHS continue into Via Pier Andrea Mattioli and 50m down on the R is the entrance to the Botanical Garden – Orto Botanico.
This lovely garden has a delightful view and contains a fine selection of rare plants and scrubs. Well worth a visit.
Open: Mon-Fri 08.00-12.30/14.30-17.30. Saturdays 08.00-12.00
Closed: Sundays & Public Holidays
Entrance is free
Guided visits on request Tel: 0577 232874
 
Retrace steps to S. Agostino, built 1258 with modifications in the 14C.Recently re-opened and is on the joint ticket with the Museo dell Opera etc. See Capella Piccolomini with its fine Madonna and Child by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Massacre of the Innocents by Matteo di Giovanni and Epifania by Sodoma. Turn R down Via S. Agata, then L through arch into Via Giovanni Dupre. Go down hill and first R (before No Entry sign) down into Piazza del Mercato. Originally a cattle market it is now a general food market. Behind it is the back of the Palazzo Pubblico.
Open from 15th Mar – 31st Oct from 10.30–13.30/15.00-17.30

Continue straight across the bottom of the piazza into Via Salicotto and turn L. Just past the steps on R turn R up through arch (Vicolo della Manna; sign on R) and up steps. You are now in the Ghetto area and the Synagogue is on the LHS.
Jews were sent into the Ghetto by Cosimo d’Medici in 1571. It was sacked by the French in 1796 – 19 were killed. Jews were enfranchised in 1895. The Synagogue was built in 1756 and restored in 1902.

Turn R into Via degli Archi and keep straight on (it becomes Vicolo della Fortuna then Contradino). Turn L up Via di Salicotto and R into Via S. Girolamo, passing the Church and Convent of S. Girolamo on R. Continue into Via dei Servi and turn immediately R up to S. Maria dei Servi. Its 13C brick facade conceals a harmonious Renaissance interior with fine paintings. See particularly Massacre of the Innocents by Pietro Lorenzetti and Madonna del Popolo by Lippo Memmi From the front is one of the best views of Siena.
Retrace your steps to Via S. Girolamo and continue straight past a forno (baker) on RHS. Turn L into Via di Salicotto and then immediately R into Vicolo dell’Oro. Notice the overhanging medieval houses, as seen on many of the frescoes. Just before it becomes Via del Rialto turn R up and over more major road (Via S. Martino) and straight on (Vicolo Magalotti). Turn L into Via di Pantaneto and past the Logge del Papa. This was built in 1462 by Pius II Piccolomini in honour of his family.
Next on the LHS is the Piccolomini Palace built in the 15C by Rossellino (the architect of Pienza). It houses the Museo delle Biccherna (to visit go into the courtyard and across to entrance door with sign ARCHIVIO DI STATO) and shows one of the finest collection of archives including the Tavolette di Biccherna, painted covers of the municipal account books by some of the most famous artists.
Turn R up Via S. Vigilio. Continue straight/R past church on RHS and turn L at Via S. Bandini. Turn R down Via Lucherini to S. Maria della Providenza.
Continue down steps to R of church and L after Piazzetta della Giraffa. Turn R at T-junction and L, then R though arch – facing you is the church of S. Francesco.This huge barn of a church was originally built in 1228 and rebuilt after a fire destroyed it in 1655, but used for centuries as warehouses and barracks! The ‘medieval’ facade was put on in 1913. In the first chapel on the L is a Crucifixion by Pietro Lorenzetti and in the third chapel in the transept to the L of the altar are fine frescoes by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, ‘S. Lodovico d’Angiò ai piedi di Bonifacio VIII’ and ‘Maitirio di Francescani a Centra’.
Next to it is the Oratorio di S. Bernandino.
Siena’s most famous preacher (1380–1444) is honoured here. Don’t miss a perfect example of high Renaissance in the upper room over the chapel with superb frescoes by Sodoma, Girolamo, Pacchia and Baccafumi.
Open 15/3 - 31/10 10.30–13.30, 15.00–17.30.

Retrace steps through arch and up Via dei Rossi. Continue under the ‘bridge’ of houses and turn R into Via Banchi di Sopra. You pass Piazza Salimbeni with statue of Sallustio Bandini. The square is surrounded by fine palaces, which are now the head offices of Monte dei Paschi – the first bank in the world, founded in 1472, allegedly with the savings of the shepherds.
Continue straight on into Via dei Montanini and turn L at Via del Sasso di S. Bernadino. Across main road (beware buses!) and straight into Viale Cesare Maccari passing the park of La Lizza on RHS. (The market is held here on Wednesday.)
[If you continue straight on here you come to the entrance of the Fortezza.
Built by Cosimo d’Medici after the Florentine conquest of Siena in 1555 it houses the Enoteca Italiana – an exhibition of wines (you can drink them too) from all over Italy
Open Tue to Sat 12.00–01.00, Mon 12.00–20.00. Closed Sunday. Entrance is free]

Turn L at Viale XXV Aprile, passing font on RHS and football stadium on L. Turn L down Viale dei Mille to San Domenico at end on R (WCs just before it, down to the R).

This huge church founded in 1226 was central to the life of S. Catherine of Siena and indeed you can see her head here! (Its small size was due to shrinking in the fire of 1531 which destroyed much of the church but, miraculously, not relics of the saint). Of particular interest is the chapel of S. Caterina decorated with frescoes by Sodoma and pictures by Matteo di Giovanni and Pietro Lorenzetti.
Turn R down Via Camporagio (wonderful view of the Cathedral on R). Follow yellow sign ‘SANTUARIO CASA DI S. CATERINA’ through tunnel and R down steps. At the bottom on the R is the Santuario di S. Caterina.
Catherine of Siena (1347–1380) was the 24th child of a wool dyer. Although illiterate she persuaded the Popes to return to Rome, ending the Great Schism. She received the Stigmata and with St. Francis is Patron Saint of Italy and a Doctor of the Church. This is the house where she was born and lived – now turned into a series of chapels.
Open 09.00–12.30, 14.30–18.00. Entrance is free

Take Via dei Pittori, opposite the entrance of the Sanctuary, then turn R on Via delle Terme and L – sign ‘PIAZZA TOLOMEI’. At Via dei Termini turn R and immediately L. Turn R down Via Banca di Sopra and perhaps pause at Nannini’s to sample a delicious home made gelato!
On the junction ahead is Logge dei Mercanti, built, according to local legend, on the meeting-point of the 3 hills of Siena. Turn down the steps on the LHS to find yourselves once again in the Piazza del Campo.

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